Ask and Tell

When I work with the horses, wether it's groundwork or riding, I use the "ask and tell". The ask and tell is; first, asking the horse to do something and if he doesn't respond, tell him to do it. 

There's a "teaching stage" and a "practice stage". The teaching stage is where I'm teaching the horse something new. I'm introducing him to something he's never done before. The practice stage is where I'm asking him to do something he already knows. Here's where not to get mixed up on; don't teach the same way you "practice" the horse. As soon as the horse understands the lesson and has it down it's when I start getting "picky". 

In the teaching stage it's basically every little effort in the right direction is an instant release of pressure with a reward. The more the horse knows how to do it the more I'll start expecting him to do it better and better, whereas the early teaching stage I'll expect him to mess up, get confused and just take small steps in the beginning. Especially in the beginning, it can get ugly or it can just go smoothly, you never know until you start teaching. 

Let's say I ask a little boy/baby:

"Could you get me that ball over there please?"

He hardily knows how to speak yet but he at least understands that I want something. Now it's my job to help him understand. He's not sure what I want and where the ball is there's also other objects. So he might go and bring me back something else like toy truck for instance. 

"no, not the truck. Can you bring me the ball?"

He might keep bringing me different objects until he finally brings the ball. That's when I make it obvious that's what I wanted and congratulate him. 

"Yes! That's what I wanted! Good job!"

I would never say:

"Go get me that ball! NOW!"And if he didn't do it in 5 seconds I would punish him. Of course not!  

Same thing with horses. I shouldn't just thrust it in his face and expect him to do it right away! It would make it a lot worse.

When I teach a horse something new I ask him like I asked the baby. Horses will try to figure out what you want by looking for an answer similar to the baby looking for the ball. He didn't know what he was looking for but as soon as he found it, I made sure he knew that's exactly what I wanted. I'll take away the pressure the second they do what I want and reward them "yes! Good job! That's what I want". So the next few times I'll ask for the same thing until the horse starts to understand "Oh! You want me to (example->) a few steps back!" (back up).

In the beginning I'll reward the horse for the slightest try. Even if he just took one step back, then I'll take the pressure off right away. Some horses will learn faster than others just people do. I need to establish a starting point each horse. If the horse just isn't getting what I'm asking for I'll take it a notch down. Or if the horse overreacts, confused, or being disrespectful, it can vary on where I need to start. I'll try to make it as easy as possible for him to understand but also be effective. But I won't stay in one spot forever! Don't teach a kid his ABCs until he's 20. I want to build on that so I'll start asking for more and more. And of course continue onto the next lesson. The fundamentals are all the foundation parts of training. It doesn't matter what the horse will do later in his life, barrel racing, trail riding, jumping, there's always a foundation to be set before anything else can be taught. 

Now that he understands well enough what I want him to do, I'll get more picky. He knows well enough what I want him to do at this point. Here's where the tell part comes in. I always ask in the lightest pressure that way anytime I ask him to do anything all it takes is the lightest pressure rather than a lot of pressure. 

I'll ask the horse:

Me: "Can you back up for me please?"

Horse: (lazy) "well...I just don't feel like it today" or (challenging me) "No. I don't want to. What do you say to that?!"

This is the horse showing me disrespect, laziness or challenging my leadership. I know he knows what I'm asking for so I don't have to worry about confusing him because we're past the teaching stage. So I'll "tell" him:

Me: "I want you to back up NOW!"

The pressure bar goes some slightest to the extreme

Horse: "Yes ma'am!"

I wouldn't do this to a horse who doesn't know the lesson/what I'm asking for. It'll just confuse him a lot and end up in a wreck. Or teaching him to fear and overreact.

In the teaching stage the pressure bar starts out small and builds up gradually with rhythm:   (for backing up method)

1, 2, 3, 4  (not listening)

1, 2, 3, 4!   (not listening)

1, 2, 3, 4!!    (not listening)

1, 2, 3, 4!!!    

In the practice stage it still starts still starts out small but if the horse doesn't respond correctly, the bar skips the gradual and right to the point. He knows what he's supposed to do, now it's his job to do it. 

1, 2, 3, 4

1, 2, 3, 4!

But if he wants to be lazy, too bad for him. For the amount of time I work him (1-3 hours a day) he has the rest of the time to himself doing whatever he wants in the paddock or turnout pen. 

If he's challenging my leadership then I need to make it my duty to correct him on that too. Horses will always challenge your leadership every once in awhile, some more than others. They'll ask it like "hey, I don't want to listen to you today! I think it's my time to be in charge here!". 

By the way, when I say I'm "asking" a horse to do something, it's not verbally asking. It's through my body language with the pressure I use on them. Again for instance, backing, if I "asked" the horse to back up about 10 steps I'll add pressure either by pulling back on the reins if I'm in the saddle, pull back, march my arms or shake the rope if it's groundwork. 

Be Consistent!

I concentrated on working on pretty much one subject (stopping) for 4 days straight with Sugar. It makes a huge difference to work 3-4 days in a row. If I just worked on one subject one day and not work on that subject for a fews days, then come back to it, in most cases the first day I worked that horse would of been useless. 

If the horse already knew the subject that would be a bit different, but if I taught or worked on a subject the horse was very bad at then I need 3-4 days straight to where it really sticks in their head. 

It goes like this:

Day 1: Introducing the lesson to the horse. Horse isn't sure on what's going on yet.

Day 2: Horse is understanding what you want and starts getting it down.

Day 3: The lesson is now a habit. It's "planted" in the horse's mind. From here it just builds up!

Day 4: You can "skip" day 4 if the horse has it down without worrying about it. This day after it will be further implanting good habits and more steps!

If I wasn't consistent and only worked on a lesson one day, here's how it would look like:

Day 1: Introducing the lesson, horse isn't sure on what's going on yet...

Day 2: No lessons

Day 3: No lessons

Day 4: Working on the same lesson. He's forgotten anything he's done on day 1 because it hasn't been planted in his head yet. No progress at all. So I'll have to introduce the whole lesson again. 

And to be honest I've made this mistake quite a bit! It doesn't matter so much if I just work on something the horse already knows, but then again it all depends on how well that horse knows it. 

My mistakes:

 I've been basically teach Sugar how to stop all over again. I haven't been consistent with this lesson and honestly very lazy... Even when I stopped her I started teaching her bad habits and her stops were terrible. It wasn't very bad and thankfully grew slowly into bad habits, but enough was enough! I started day 1 with a lot of backing. Not only backing in the saddle but a lot on the ground too. She's actually quite good at backing on the ground. She's not too bad in the saddle but she always tried to walk out of it when I asked her. 

Focus and be consistent:

Currently right now on day 4 I can back her with one finger and the slightest pressure! I wouldn't of been able to do that if I wasn't consistent with her every day!

I did a lot of backing because this taught her to think back instead forward, forward, forward all the time. I would back her on the ground all the way to the arena. When I'm in the arena (for these lessons I skipped a lot of groundwork because I wanted to use my time and focus mostly under saddle) I would mount and instead of taking off right then I would flex her from side to side and then back her around the arena for a bit. When I did move forward, every time I stopped I'd back her. I also focused on my seat and how I should feel with my body language. 

I did more than just backing however. I worked on her yielding the hindquarters because I very rarely did that. Yielding the hindquarters was actually really hard for me to do under saddle in the beginning of my learning especially because I had a hard time feeling/telling if she was crossing her hind legs over and keeping her inside foreleg planted or not. It's a lot about feeling on this one because I can't see what's she actually doing like I could if I did the same thing on the ground. I was so afraid of doing it wrong. But now I'm starting to get the hang of it! 

And my main subject; stopping! I did more backing on day 1 than I did stopping even though the stops were my main goal. The reason for this is because backing is the key to better stops. I want her mentally balanced out between backwards and forwards. Horses always start out thinking forward forward forward! When they spook it's run away, running forward. Unless they're trapped or physically can't move forward, horses will naturally and always run forwards. It's very rare that a horse will ever in his daily life back up on his own. So they're naturally thinking forward and that's why they don't come so easy to be taught to stop and back up. 

Whenever you ride a horse it's usually get on and go! That's why when I get on I don't want the horse to take off. I don't want him to be impatient to go already. I don't even want him to be thinking of moving forward! So I'll spend my time flexing first because that will teach him to stand as long as I want without getting impatient about going. It's a good habit to change it up and back the horse once in awhile before ever taking a step forward. This way he's there and never knows what you'll ask but is ready to do what you want vs assuming you'll want to go straight off and taking charge of what to do.

Being consistent is very important when teaching a horse, especially if it's something new! 

And I'll make one more point on this. If for instance I did work my horse every day for 3 or 4 days straight and the horse forget's the lesson each time the next day, I'm obviously not making any progress. This is a very high chance that he's not paying attention! You have to make sure that horse is paying attention to you and not getting distracted or looking for something else to look at because you're not being in his face enough. 

It's like kid in a class room learning, let's say math for instance, for about a week. He might be half asleep bored out of his mind and looking out the window for something else to interest him in. He technically heard his teacher but it went in one ear and out the other. Same thing with horses! If you're a "boring teacher" and not aggressive enough, the next day he'll forget everything he's learned. You could be teaching him to back up and maybe make a little progress the first day but if he's not looking at you 90% of the time it probably means he's not paying attention. 

I learned this the hard way when teaching Ruby backing and lunging. She had her head turned away a lot of the time on somewhere else (daydreaming, a horse far off, who knows what else). Because she wasn't paying attention I lost all that time on her because the next day it was the exact same thing. It was only when Shelbi (CA method ambassador) said to me once "pull her head around! Make sure she's giving you two eyes!". And then she told me about a 100 times after that...

At first I didn't know the use of this and probably wouldn't of bothered if she wasn't there. But the next day it made enough of a difference to show me that I was completely wrong! She was a different horse! She finally knew the answer to the math problem!

Foal Imprinting

I don't have much experience with foals, having never raised one myself, but I got to help out with a newborn this morning. On Mother's Day Lena (gray dappled QH mare) had her baby! A little girl! This filly is a red roan and the cutest thing ever! 

I got to help Debbie imprint the little foal this morning. Imprinting is basically introducing humans to the horse at a very young early on age. In fact as soon as their born! It's letting the horse know who you are and not to be afraid of you or your tools. Teaching respect should also be taught through the foal's life. Imprinting a horse so early in his/her life is so useful especially since it helps the foal get used to farriers, vets, riding and anything else the horse will encounter in the future. They're also easier to train because they've been introduced to humans and their tools. Imprinting is harder to do the older the foal is because he get's stronger and could hurt you easily. 

Imprinting a foal may look abusive to a lot of people, but it's not! Basically it's laying the foal down so he's on his side. keeping him there by holding on to his foreleg that's closest and hindleg that's closest. Also keeping the foal's head bent around to his withers. This keeps him in a bind so it's harder for him to get up or struggle loose. 

Imprinting has a lot to do with desensitizing. Clinton actually has videos and information on this too. 

There are a lot of different ways of doing it but when I've heard and got to do was basically rub/pat a spot on the foal about 50 times and if the foal reacts, start over again. So as you can see it takes a bit of time. And this has to be done all over the foal's body. Every horse has a spot where they loved to be touched or hate to be touched, or may not even care! Doing this all now is easier than trying to do it when it's grown. The bigger the horse the easier for him to hurt you. If we touch the foal 50 times in a spot and she doesn't react then we move on to another spot. We did it all over her body! And I mean all over, even in her nose and ears! Touching and tapping on her feet too, which prepares her for the farrier when she's big enough. 

The last thing we want to do is let her go when she reacts. It's desensitizing, so if she relaxes we can move on. If she reacts we have to stay there until she relaxes again. Imprinting is done about 3 times. This morning was her last imprinting and she did great! She had a better side. 

SO many horses have a good side and a bad side in almost any situation. The goal is to always even them out. 

I'm back!

I just came back from Europe and haven't been with the horses for 3 weeks. The other day I rode Sugar and did groundwork with her on the obstacle course. Overall Sugar wasn't as bad as I thought she would be not working with her for those 3 weeks. She gained some weight and started to get a nice tan that shows her dapples. 

Amber had been starting to practice jumping with her horse Athena. So that first day being back I also tried jumping with Sugar. I wanted to do more groundwork with her first but since Amber wasn't going to be there for long so I jumped with her. It was a lot of fun and Sugar had the energy!

I want to teach Sugar starting from the ground to not only jump but pick her feet up more. She's more on the clumsy side and not paying enough attention to where's she going a lot of the time that I thought obstacle work would be great for her. 

Circle logs are perfect for this. This obstacle is basically logs fanned out in a circle. I can do this obstacle with Sugar on the ground or in the saddle. It's similar to poles but the logs are bigger and usually fewer causing the horse to take bigger and higher steps. Sugar lacks in picking her feet up and often knocks things or hits jumps when she goes over. She's on the lazy side when it comes to that. So when I have her do jumps for instance I have her doing it until she can clear them with ease as well as be able to find the rhythm and timing of the jump instead of getting distracted or "falling asleep". Circle logs keeps her mind in constant focus on where to put her feet next. I have her trot over the logs and just as she's over one there's already another one to go over. This really helps keep her on the thinking side of her brain. Usually at first she'll go around awkwardly, maybe trying to get out of it or hesitating before going over but the more I work on it the better she does timing and picking up her feet. 

Jumping she's pretty lazy at. There's a lot of groundwork to be done there. Depending on how big the jump she'll try to trot over but usually she'll have to canter to make the jump and a lazy little jump that often ends up in knocking the poles down. 

I'm going to be back tracking and working on mostly her stopping and smooth cantering. She does have a great slow canter but not so much if we're going out on the trails. I can stop her but I want her to stop off my seat rather than a one rein stop. Most of everything I've worked on her has been turning, being and things like that. But not enough work on just going straight and easy as much as I should of done.

Sending Exersice


To be able to send the horse through tight, narrow spaces (without moving your feet) at both a walk and trot and have the horse yield and face you, and then go back in the other direction. 

Horses are actually naturally claustrophobic. Some more than others. Wether the horse goes between you and a fence, through a gully, between fences/through gates or just between two close objects. So sending them starting off the fence and making that space smaller and smaller helps get them over their claustrophobic. 

It also teaches them to be lighter in the halter, that halter pressure behind they're ears. They should be able to go in the direction just by me pointing that way. 

And lastly it's also very useful for trailer loading. Being in a big box like thing that moves can be really scary for a horse. 

Teaching this exercise to a new horse that has never done it was a challenge to me. I was teaching a horse named Rose at the time through some of the fundamentals awhile back. Some horses will have a hard time learning certain exercises and sending was one Rose and I had a hard time on. In fact it was very frustrating! She just didn't seem to get what I wanted her to do. But it was also fault too..

From what I can remember I was asking her to step between me and the fence in a space too close too early. I didn't start at a good starting point. I should of took a few steps back and have her go between that. I can definitely remember her being a very claustrophobic horse, very unlike Ruby and Sugar. I don't remember either Ruby or Sugar ever being very claustrophobic. 

My other problem was not adding enough pressure. She would start by going forward but as soon as she realized how small the space was she would back up...and back up, and back up! I followed her like I was supposed to do but didn't add enough pressure. And now that I'm remembering I also think I had way too much loose rope. Which made it harder to reach her and easier for her to back up or try to run off. 

When Shelbi (CA Ambassador) was here I asked her to help me with this after we finished with Ruby and Sugar. It was a hot humid day and there was a lot of dust...and I was so tired and sore...BUT it never felt better! We spent a long time, she having me teach the lesson to Rose while correcting any of my mistakes. I did it over and over and over until I could send Rose 5-8 times without a fault either from her or me. It was so tiring but the next day when I took Rose out to teach her the same lesson I don't think she messed up once! I was so excited about this and a little surprised on how well Rose remembered the lesson the day before! I practiced sending her everywhere! I was just so excited she was finally able to do it I was having fun sending her all over the place. 

Those times when it's feels SO hard and tiring but as soon as I push through that point it's SO worth going through again!

"Sometimes you have to go through some ugly stuff to get to the good stuff" ~Clinton Anderson

Goofy picture from awhile back of me and Rose: 


This is a video of an amazing work at liberty:

I've always wanted to do liberty work! I also think Sugar would love doing it too!

Liberty is it's own kind of sport in the horse world. It also has a lot to do with trick training, (trick riding is separate). Liberty is all off line tricks, so no halters, no leads. The horse listens to the trainer's commands without having anything connected to the horse. There are a lot of tricks in liberty like bowing, rearing, lying down, leading beside, circling, jumping, Spanish walk, side passing and a lot more. Being able to lead beside well is one of the biggest fundamental parts in liberty. But overall do be able to do liberty there's a lot of fundamental groundwork involved.

I've practiced liberty-ish type of stuff with Sugar. She's actually very quick to learn! Today I spent a little time riding her bare back. But after that I took the bridle off and tied a string around her neck. This is just in case I need to pull on her head if I "lose her". There's an invisible circle around me where as long as Sugar is in that space of the circle she'll listen to me. But if she's outside she'll start walking off or not pay attention to me. My mission is to make that circle bigger! These exercises are a bit of a side project but since they're very useful I'm going to start working more on it. 

I taught her to lead beside me pretty well. She's not pushy at all! I can ask her to trot just by leaning forward, stretch my hand ahead as if i'm pulling on an invisible lead, and if I have to tap her with my stick towards her rump if she doesn't respond. I also encourage her to trot by doing it myself. 

I can stop her easily by stopping myself. A lot of the time as a to let her know ahead of time I'll say "woah". 

I also taught her to back up without having to turn around and face her. I march my arms and lean back a little. That's her cue to back up. If she get's "sticky feet" I'll add pressure by marching with more energy and tapping her legs with my stick. 

I can also back her up when facing her a pretty good distance. I can actually back her out of the invisible circle and still have her backing and not walking off. 

I can yield her hindquarters and forequarters with ease. I can yield her forequarters her with ease from beside her as well. A lot of horses will get pushy when you starting walking in a arc turning into them. Sugar is really good about respecting my space as well as following me.

The only thing I can technically do but not very well is changing sides. I've done this with her before but I need to a lot more work on this as well as more work on her other side. To change sides I look over my shoulder away from her and around to her butt. That's when she switches sides and now she's on my other side. 

And lastly, I can ground tie her. This she does very well in her paddock, arena, hitching posts or obstacle course. But she doesn't do as well anywhere else. A lot of the time she will stand there but I can't do off doing something else without wondering if she'll walk off or stay. 

Here's a picture of a ground tie session I did with Sugar awhile ago:    (with a halter and lead)

Circle Driving

~Circle Driving~


"To have the horse trot around beside you in a circle, staying exactly 4 feet away while remaining relaxed, maintaining an arc in his body and keeping slack in the lead rope both in the circle and during changes of direction."

This exercise teaches the horse to bend more in the ribs and softer in the halter. They're also a lot closer to you (4 feet) than they are in lunging. But this exercise is really good for a nervous, reactive horse as well as a pushy horse. 

Pushy horses: Been able to work beside you but respect your space. This also helps have them pay attention to you while working so close to you on the ground.

Softer: Arcing that rib cage and getting softer will also help for when you're in the saddle. Softer circles! 

Lighter in the halter: This helps for when you pull on the halter for the horse not to pull against it but go with your direction.